Climbing
is regarded as one of the most adventurous and serious expedition,
which has been attracting people from all over the world and
establishing Nepal as an 'Adventure paradise'. In order to make the
climb successful there is important role of a reliable company and an
experience climbing guide (sirdar).
There are two kinds of climbing (expedition).
1. Trekking peaks: smaller and easier
2. Mountain peaks: higher and challenging
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Our
Company organizes both mountain peak expedition as well as trekking
peak climbing. Here are the most popular trekking peaks: |
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| Mera Peak |
Mera
Peak (6,654 m) is the highest permitted trekking peak of Nepal. It
stands to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the
heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas.
J.O.M. Roberts and Sen
Tenzing made the first successful ascent of Mera Peak on 20 May 1953.
The route they used is still the standard route. There are many other
routes to the peak, but none of them are easy. Some of them require
crossing very high and difficult passes. This leads to a true
mountaineering experience. In the end, all efforts and hard work is
paid off with spectacular scenery as Mera provides one of the finest
viewpoints in Nepal.
Mera Peak offers a panoramic
view of Chamlang, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, and Baruntse in the east and
the peaks of Cho-Oyu, Ama Dablam and Kangtega to the west. Everest can
be viewed to the north over the massive unclimbed south face of Lhotse
and the Nuptse/Lhotse ridge. Under favourable conditions, it is
possible to climb the peak and descend back on the same day. |
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| Chulu East |
First
climbed in 1955 by a German expedition via the north-east ridge, the
peak of Chulu East, together with Chulu West, forms an integral part of
the Manang Himal, which in turn is included in the Larger Damodar
Himal. Chulu East lying south east of Chulu West is a comparatively
smaller peak. |
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| Singu Chuli |
Singu
Chuli (6,501 m) was formerly known as Fluted Peak. The first ascent of
this peak was made by Wilf Noyce and David Cox on its North–East Face
and the top section of the East Ridge. This mountain has proven to be
very difficult to climb for most commercial climbing groups who have
tried to concentrate on Tent Peak.
Singu
Chuli is the first summit on the long ridge thrown down from Tarke Kang
(Glacier Dome), which separates the South and West Annapurna Glaciers.
Annapurna South Base Camp provides the best distant view of the
mountain. To date, apart from the original route, most efforts to climb
this mountain have concentrated on the face and ridges seen from this
viewpoint. The southwest ridge of the mountain connects with Tent Peak.
The terrain between the two mountains is a confusing one and the ridge
is not straight. |
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| Hiunchuli |
Hiunchuli,
at a height of 6,441 meters, forms a massive south-facing wall together
with Annapurna South. Its eastern face overlooks the Modi Khola and
guards the entrance to the Annapurna Sanctuary. An American Peace Corps
Expedition, via the southeast face, first climbed Hiunchuli in October
1971. The mountain is not technically difficult to climb but is
vulnerable to rock falls, and route finding may also be a problem. Even
though it offers major new route potentials, it has received little
attention from mountaineers and is rarely climbed. |
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| Chulu West |
Of
the two Chulus (East and West), Chulu West is the higher peak. It was
first ascended in 1952 by a Japanese Expedition. The Base Camp of this
peak is situated in a small valley north of Manang, off the main trail
to the Thorang La. There is a controversy regarding the name and
location of the Chulu peaks. There are several peaks close by and are
also a part of Chulu massif but are not indicated in the map. Thus it
is difficult to differentiate between the two Chulus. However, the
Chulu group comprises of four peaks: two in the east and two in the
west. Chulu West may also be called Chulu Central. There is no
technical difficulty in ascending this peak but progress can be slow as
the slopes are vulnerable to avalanches in certain conditions. |
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| Kusum Kanguru |
Kusum
Kanguru, 6,369 meters, dominating the southern end of Charpati Himal
separates the valley of the Dudh Koshi from the upper reaches of Hinku
Drangka. This peak is a complex, triple–summited mountain having at
least five major ridges and faces. The north face of the main summit is
the most spectacular one. The name Kusum Kanguru comes from Tibetan
meaning “Three Snow Peaks”.
This peak is one
of the most difficult trekking peaks to climb and was first ascended in
the autumn of 1979 by a Japanese team. |
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| Pharchamo Peak |
First
climbed in 1955, Pharchamo Peak is an attractive snow peak lying south
of Tashi Lapcha. It has a north-by-northwest ridge, which rises from
the crevassed glacier astride the Tashi Lapcha. The face of the ridge
forms a uniform slope broken by crevasse and seraes rising from the
rocky lower buttresses above the Drolambau Glaciers in the west.
Rolwaling valley is the main access to Pharchamo, though this route was
closed for most of the 1980s due to potential dangers to porters
crossing the Tashi Lapcha. The only other alternative route is from the
Khumbu side via Namche Bazar and Thame. |
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| Imja Tse (Island Peak) |
Imja
Tse peak, at a height of 6,160 meters, is more popularly known by the
name of Island Peak. The peak was named Island peak by Eric Shipton’s
party in 1953, as the peak resembles an island in a sea of ice when
viewed form Dingboche. Later in 1983, the peak was renamed as Imja Tse.
The peak was first ascended in 1953 by a
British team as preparation for climbing Everest. Tenzing Norgay was
one of the members who successfully ascended it.
The peak is part of the south
ridge of Lhotse Shar and the main land forms a semicircle of cliffs
that rise to the north of the summits of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak
and Lhotse Shar. Cho Polu and Makalu lie to the east of the Island
Peak. Baruntse, Amphu and Ama Dablam lie to the south. |
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| Lobuche (East) |
The Lobuche Mountain
consists of two different summits, viz. East and West with heights of
6,119 m and 6,145 m respectively. A continuous ridge connects them but
there is still a sharp gap and a considerable distance between them.
The East Peak is recognised as a trekking peak, whereas the West is
known as an Expedition Peak.
Lobuche being an attractive
mountain offers various existing routes and also a potential for new
ones. The dark triangle of its rocky East face rises over the moraines
of the Khumbu Glacier to a spectacular skyline, forming the south
ridge.
The peak of Lobuche East is
reached by descending a marked notch and climbing steep snowy slopes to
the top. On most occasions, the mountain is climbed on the summit ridge
only as far as a subsidiary snow summit, south–east of the true peak
and before the notch. This peak is identified as the false peak.
Laurence Nielson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa made the first ascent to Lobuje
East on 25 April 1984 although there are possibilities that others have
reached the summit before. But no records are available. |
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| Pisang Peak |
Pisang Peak offers good scope for exploration. The western flank of the
mountain is guarded by a hanging glacier and offers considerable
challenge. The western end of the ridge is guarded by huge rock slabs,
which make it difficult to climb. A German Expedition made the first
ascent of Pisang Peak in 1955.
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| Kwangde |
Also
known as Kangde Ri and Kwangde, Kwangdi Ri is a difficult mountain to
climb and stands at a height of 6,011m. It forms an impressive
multi-summited ridge at the eastern end of the Lumding Himal, which in
turn is part of Rolwaling Himal. The mountain stands above the Bhote
Koshi River to the south-west of Namche Bazar. The northern part of the
mountain forms an impressive barrier having several steep ridges to the
north. |
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| Ramdung |
Ramdung
stands at a height of 5,925 meters. It is situated south of Na in the
upper Rolwaling region and is one of a cluster of peaks surrounding
Yalung La. It provides an access to upper Rolwaling from the south via
the Khare Khola. A team led by Bill Murray first climbed the peak in
1952; it proved to be an ideal summit for commercial trekking and
climbing groups before closure of the Rolwaling. The normal route to
this mountain, through the glaciers of North-East Flank, is
straightforward. The mountain offers a panoramic view of mountain
ranges from Langtang to Everest and also a splendid view of Gauri
Shankar and Menlungtse. |
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| Naya Kanga (Ganja La Chuli) |
Formerly
known as Ganja La Chuli, Naya Kanga (5,844 m) rises to the west of
Ganja La, and is a popular but difficult mountain to climb. The normal
route to this peak is via the snowy north–east ridge. It is not yet
clear who climbed this summit first. The most important reward of
climbing Naya Kanga is the spectacular view of mountains in or near
Tibet.
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| Pokhalde |
Pokhalde
(5,806 m) was first climbed in 1953 via the Kongma La along its north
ridge by the 1953 Everest Expedition team led by John Hunt. Pokhalde
looks like a crenulated rocky ridge dominated by the vast bulk of
Nuptse when seen from Nuptse. The mountain has a small hanging glacier,
which is best reached along the ridge rising from the Kongma La, on its
northern side. Although the summit is comparatively smaller than the
rest, it provides a good viewpoint. |
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| Kongma Tse |
Kongma
Tse, 5,849 meters, was formerly called Mehra Peak or simply Mehra. It
rises to the north of Kongma La and stands above the Khumbu Glacier
opposite of Lobuje. It is one of several summits which make up the long
south-west ridge of Nuptse. |
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| Tharpuchuli |
Situated
in the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary, Tharpuchuli is an attractive
mountain. It is a part of the ridgeline and is located south from the
glacier dome. It includes Singu Chuli and acts as a central divider
between the semicircles of peaks enclosing the Sanctuary. Tharpuchuli
offers an interesting climb to the top and also offers a spectacular
view of the Annapurna mountains. The peak was nicknamed “Tent Peak “ by
Jimmy Roberts in 1956. |
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| Mardi Himal |
Mardi
Himal (5,587 m) lies less than 15 miles from Pokhara, and is the most
southerly peak of the Annapurna range. It is the lowest and the least
climbed or visited peak. Photographs of Mardi Himal taken in 1953 by
Baisl Goodfellow first drew the attention of western climbers, and the
mountain received its first ascent in 1961. The first route was via the
East Flank and is the only one used so far. The mountain separates the
southwest ridge of Machhapuchhare as a separate mass at right angles to
the ridge and is best seen from the south. The southwest face of the
mountain has three well-defined ridges rising from rock buttresses and
separated by hanging glaciers. Its east face is separated from the
Machhapuchhare ridge by a col at 5,200 meters. The normal climbing
route to the summit of Mardi Himal passes through this col. The summit
offers a splendid view of the Annapurna Range and the Fishtail mountain
– Machhapuchhare. The valleys and ridges south of Mardi Himal are steep
and heavily wooded with bamboo and rhododendron. Alpine pastures above
the forest provide a good habitat for wildlife. |
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| How to apply for the climbing permit |
1. The following documents have to be submitted to the Ministry of
Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation (Mountaineering Division) by the
appointed Government Registered and Recognized Trekking Company on
behalf of the Mountaineering Team. |
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»
Endorsement of the National Alpine Club and if in case there is no
alpine club, the endorsement of the Government of the respective
country of the members of the Mountaineering Team. |
» Short biography of all the members of the expedition (with the respective photographs and signatures). |
| » Map and or photograph of the mountain indicating the climbing route. |
| » Approach route map. |
| » Completed Application |
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2. Since climbing permission is granted on 'FIRST COME FIRST SERVE' basis,
it is therefore necessary to enlist the expedition's name for the
particular mountain for the particular season of the year. This listing
is made when the completed application form with the necessary
documents are received by the concerned Ministry. Incase all the
documents mentioned above can not be submitted at a time, booking is
possible with only the completed application with the related documents
of the expedition leader. |
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3. No fee as mentioned above is required to enlist the expedition's name.
The Government Royalty, Liaison Officer's Equipment fee, Sardar's
Equipment fee and other payments are to be made at the time of
obtaining the Climbing Permit after the arrival of the Expedition Team
in Nepal. |
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| Fee Structure (Royalty) for Mountain expedition |
»
Mt. Everest US $ 50,000 for team of up to 5 members and US $10,000 for
each additional members/ maximum size is 10 on each team. |
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Peaks above 8000 meter (except Mt. Everest) US $10,000 for team of up
to 7 members and US $1,500 for each additional members/ maximum size is
12 on each team. |
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Peaks between the heights of 7501 to 8000m. US $4,000 for team of up to
7 members and for each additional US $500.00 & maximum size is 12
members. |
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Peaks between the heights of 7001 to 7500m.US $3,000 for team of up to
7 members and for each additional US $400.00 & maximum size is 12
members. |
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Peaks between the heights of 6501 to 7000m. US $2,000 for team of up to
7 members and for each additional US $300.00 & maximum size is 12
members. |
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| Garbage Deposit for Mountain peak expedition |
Effective
from 1992" the Ministry of Tourism has fixed the price of the deposit
for the management of Garbage's by each mountaineering team who tries
to climb any peak are as follows :
» Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) US $ 4,000
» Other peaks above 8000 meter US $ 3,000
» All peaks less than 8000 meters US $ 2,000 |
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